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Not Your Ordinary T-Shirt
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Neck detail showing mesh band with metallic and hook tape trip.

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Eclectic Geometry silk screen kit is used to embellish this t-shirt, with the screened motifs applied in a vertical flow from neck to hem. Dashes of metallic foil in antique gold hologram are added after the paint is dry and heat set. I used Neopaque Black, and Metallic Bronze Lumiere paints. Sleeves are cut on the bias and stretch mesh is used at the neck and wrist.



Tone-on-tone + Foil
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Set for spring in a favorite acid green, this detail from a new t-shirt shows how a bit of tone on tone surface design gives everyday drama to a simple t-shirt. I used Citrine, my favorite new color from Lumiere, and added a bit of metallic foil using the new antique silver hologram foil.
Adding a Bust Dart

Adding a Bust Dart
If you are full busted and there is no dart in the pattern, you may notice that there are gaps/wrinkles in the armhole. Adding a dart adds depth and shaping, eliminates the wrinkles and is much more flattering to many figures (not just full busts), than a flat unshaped bodice. A bust dart can be added to the side seam or the armhole, but is best added to the armhole in knits as this is where it wants to be.

Experiment with pleating out the form and direction of the dart while you are tissue fitting your pattern. It is simple to pinch out the dart in the tissue to remove excess fullness. Don?t get carried away and make the dart too deep. In most cases the dart will only be 1? deep at the seam line, and the length of the dart will be 2-3 inches long. Because the dart pleats out fullness, you?ll need to lengthen the top, so this becomes a 3 step process as you tissue fit.

1. Determine the depth of the dart in the first stage of tissue fitting
2. Lengthen the top. The depth of the dart at the seamline determines the amount to lengthen. Add scrap tissue and lengthen the total amout of the dart you will add. So, if yo pleated out a 1/2? inch deep dart, you will lengthen a total of 1 inch.
3. Repin the pattern tissue together and form the new dart exactly where you want it and mark to sew.
Double Darts
Make a dart into a design feature....this is a great trick for large busts which can require a large/deep dart. Divide the depth of the dart in half. Mark the original dart point. Make 2 darts, half the depth of the original dart, placed parallel to each other and an equal distance apart so the original apex point is centered between the two new darts. You can do this with a bust dart in the side seam or the armhole---a trick used by Calvin Klein.

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