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| Sewing Pants...a few tricks
I've been making a series of pants for a future Vogue pattern. Much of my studio work involves sewing for future patterns. I love doing this because it works my own creative and technical edges. No directions (I'm writing them as I go). No guidelines for what fabric to use other than the great choices available in our ArtBarn/marcytilton.com collection. A pattern maker (a fabulously talented woman), makes the patterns. No seam allowances. Just the pieces. She provides me with a pattern in a size 14/16, my size, and in a size 10 to send to Vogue when all the tweaks and tuning up is done.
I figure out the best way to put the pants together and experiment with different fabrics. I write the directions as I go, starting with making some prototypes in my own size, and following my intuition as to the fabric choices.
I can't show the finished pants until the pattern is released (Fall 2013). It features 2 different pants, and I am so pleased with the way the first 2 prototypes have come out.
But I CAN show a some of the cool things about the construction and share the fabric choices I made. |
| Personalize Cutting & Construction
After you've determined that the pant will fit (another topic entirely), contemplate cutting and the order of construction. Bear in mind that pattern instructions are a boilerplate, and you might want to put your pants together in a different order.
| | Cutting
Trade secret: I prefer patterns with NO seam allowance. In an ideal world, when working with commercial patterns I'd trim away the seam/hem allowances and add them as I cut. Realistically, most people will not do this, but I am planting the seed of this idea just in case it might take root with a few serious sewists. This is the way it is done professionally (also in couture), and allows you to decide how much to add and where. 1/2 inch is ideal for most seams. Hem depth is determined by the style and the fabric. The unspoken advantage of this is that you will have a kinetic memory that builds in as you work.
I like to allow for fitting as I sew, so I use wider seam allowances at THE SIDE SEAMS. I adjust so the side seam allowance is 1-2 inches wide, making sure that any connecting pieces like facings etc. all have the same seam width built in. I make a note of this on the back of the pattern envelope or on the envelope where I store the pattern for future reference, and keep these notes current with dates.
You can mark the cutting line with a fine line chalker. I use a rotary cutter with a guide arm (sadly these guide arms are no longer available). I put a pin going into the seam to remind me NOT to cut along the cutting line, but along my new line.
I mark every single notch (with 1/4" clips into the seam allowance) and dot and transfer the markings to the wrong side of the fabric before removing the pattern. If the fabric looks the same on both sides, choose one for the 'good' side and mark the wrong side clearly with chalk so you don't end up with 2 left backs... | |
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|  | | | ConstructionWhen sewing a pant with a fly zipper, I adapt the order of construction to sew the fly first, rather than at the end as some patterns recommend. I'm guessing that the pattern companies use boilerplate instructions and have you sew the pant together, then do the fly at the end, but I find it easier to do the fly process when things are flat.
The trick is to stitch the front crotch seam leaving an opening to sew the fly, but also leaving the seam open at the crotch (about 2"). In the photo you can see the markings and the rather short seam...this is the secret to making things easier. Why? Because with a pant, you always want to sew the crotch curve seam in one line of stitching which results in a better fit. | |
Once all the details on the front and back are sewn (pockets, darts, any piecing etc.), sew the inseam. Depending on the weight of the fabric, sometimes I serge the edges and press the inseam open as shown in the photo above, or press together to one side and topstitch. To eliminate bulk, you can press one seam toward the front and the other toward the back and topstitch.
Stitch the crotch seam, then reinforce by sewing a second line of stitching close to the first. Trim the seam to 1/4", or, better yet, serge the seams together in the curved area as shown here. | |
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| | Shortening a Separating Zipper
Finding a separating zipper in the right color and the right length can be challenging. Thanks to Linda McGehee of Ghee's who told me how simple it can be to adjust the length easily. Buy a longer zipper than you'll need and shorten it FROM THE TOP. | | | | | Mark the new length, here shown with pins. I do this on the garment when I am ready to stitch in the zip. |
| | | | | Trim away the teeth, cutting with a SHARP little scissors right next to the teeth. Zipper tape is tightly woven, it is OK to do this. You can use a bit of seam sealant along the edge to prevent any fraying. |
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| | | | | | | Turn under the zipper tape 2X to make a clean top. Make a bar tack in matching thread at the top to keep the pull tab from slipping off. |
| | | | | Here you can see the finished zipper as it looks on the completed garment. Shown here on Vogue 8795 which features a zipper application that is super fast and easy to execute! |
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| | | Link to the essential zippers..... | | | | |
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