Black Handkerchief Linen Shirt — The Ellsworth Shirt

This is a simple, flattering shirt that I will wear all summer. The pattern itself runs larger than I wanted so I cut this version smaller and longer, while simplifying and lengthening the sleeves.

Notes and changes made to the pattern:

• Black handkerchief linen was machine washed and dried. The finished shirt will no longer go in the dryer and will be worn purposely wrinkled.
• I cut two sizes smaller than my normal size. Paper fit the front and back to determine which size pattern will give you the look you want.
• Added 8” in length, shifting the side openings down on the pattern.
• Added 3” in length to the center front, grading up to the side. This adjusted the front length to make accommodation for a full bust and tummy.
• Added 1” to the sleeve length.
• Cut 4 sleeve cuffs and used them to make a simple turn back cuff with a slit.
• Added an extra 1½” band down the front.

The extra front band was added because I messed up the front placket. I must admit to hating to sew those front plackets for this very reason — I always seem to mess them up! In spite of my careful stitching and clipping, one corner of the placket shifted, literally disintegrated and was not redeemable. I attempted to repair it with a bit of hand stitching but no dice. Not wanting to cut a new front, I slept on the problem and realized the best/easiest solution was to add something that looked purposeful as a design element. The band does the trick and adds weight to the front as a bonus.

The photos shows the shirt after it has been ironed. As mentioned above, the shirt will be worn wrinkled to keep things simple. I love the way linen softens as it’s washed and worn plus, wrinkled linen is chic now.