Both sides now

Taking a cue from RTW, V1808 tunic & vest duo uses both sides of Evening Shadows, a double sided ponte printed in an impressionistic stone-like motif reversing to solid black on the back. The front of both tunic and vest use the print, while the back is in solid black. The vest is simply the jacket with the sleeves removed, so when worn with the tunic, it creates the illusion of a jacket without the bulk.

Carol on our ArtBarn team raves about Butterick 6492 as one of her all time favorites, 'A flattering tunic/t-shirt with pockets that is easy and fun to sew, what's not to like!'

Here, we paired Blue Dahlia sweater knit accented with Callum Blue USA knit stripes used in the neckband, one pocket and one sleeve facing.

When Vogue asked me to do a 'loungewear' design I suggested a garment I wear every day of my life, an adaptation of a classic kimono that can go from an at home robe to a casual jacket to an elegant occasion. Works tied closed or open, good for both women and men, and can be interpreted in a wide variety of fabrics, humble cotton, elegant silk, cozy flannel, sumptuous cashmere, sophisticated brocade. Easy to fit and sew and makes a fine gift.

V1989 shown here in Carita silk crepe du chine.

Tips for matching plaids

Plaids are having a major 'thing' right now, and we are loving this trend! Katherine used our Kenji Plaid paired with V1970 to make a cozy vest to add a pop of color to her favorite jeans.

Plaids take a bit of time and thought in the cutting process. Here are a few tips.

To figure extra yardage, multiply the repeat by the number of main pattern pieces. For example, if the repeat is 4" and you have 4 main/large pattern pieces, you would need a minimum of 16 extra inches. To match plaids, cut single thickness, starting with the main pattern piece at center front or back, placing CF/CB centered between (NOT ON), a dominant color or line, then cut one piece at a time, using the cut out piece as a pattern piece for the next, flipping, so you get a left and right side. I draw the plaid on the pattern pieces to match at side seams and notches on sleeves. If the plaid is unbalanced, cut as for a nap. Sew with a walking foot to prevent shifting. Some pieces like pockets, yoke and collar can be cut on the bias.

When the cool weather hits, the one garment I wear more than any other is a vest. My starting point was the fabric, Candied Yam Plaid, a fabulous washed Japanese cotton/wool blend. I adapted V1959 jacket as a vest. Cut the plaid with care, as it is a one way unbalanced plaid, used both right and wrong sides of the fabric to make things line up. When it came time to figure out the edges, I dug into my stash and viola, discovered a silky poly plaid that harmonized perfectly. My backup plan would have been to use a black lining fabric for the bindings.

Changes:
Narrowed the front edge by about 3"
Cut the center back seam using the selvedge to the outside.
Ran short of fabric, so pieced the back shoulder, using the selvedge edge as trim.
Made a dart in the armhole - sewn once finished, for a better fit.
Added a ½ back lining so things slip on more easily.

marcy's version

All last fall and winter, the one piece I kept thinking about and wanting in my wardrobe was a black corduroy jacket. Wished for it in Paris last fall and again back home last winter. Making this jacket was a pleasure and sometimes a struggle. Read more about design changes and decisions on the blog.