Pocket Pants — Vogue 9303

Because all of life is a journey my intention is to create designs that travel well through life, whether staying at home, going to a job, or out and about exploring the world. I travel a lot - am on a plane an average of once a month, and I want my travel clothes to function on the move as well as for days at home in the studio. I seek designs that can be dressed up or down so that the clothes I sew are worn and loved.

Features of the V9303 pant pattern:

• Slim fitting
• Nearly invisible waistline elastic is hidden in seam allowance in the facing
• 2 pockets, one with a zipper, the other open, designed to hold a cell phone, right where you need it
• Pieced, so you could use a combination of fabrics, has a subtle reticulated shaping, a trend I'm seeing in RTW.

Fabric Suggestions

• Stretch Wovens
• Ponte
• The fabric must have stretch that goes around the body.
• If your fabric has lengthwise stretch (and I am seeing more and more woven this way), cut the pant on the cross grain. Cutting on the cross grain takes less fabric - I usually use only 2 yards when cutting on the cross grain.
• For a stretch woven without much stretch, cut wider seam allowances and fit as you sew.

Fitting Tips

• The first time I sew ANY pant, including my own patterns, I am prepared to fit and sew and adjust as I go.
• Tissue fitting is a good idea.
• Establish the finished length before cutting (or come close, some room for adjustment in the lower hem piece).
• I basted one leg of the pant to try on before sewing the pocket that overlaps the side seam.
• The fit will also be determined by the amount of stretch in your fabric.
• The pattern envelope says

Sewing Tips

• To prevent rippling, sew using a walking foot. I found that the super-stretchy Ace Olive Stretch Woven rippled when sewn with a regular foot
• Because the left side pocket extends over the side seam, I baste this one leg together to fine tune the fitting before stitching the pocket in place.
• See the photos below for a cool trick to get a clean smooth line on patch pockets.
• I cut the bottom hem panel after the rest of the garment was sewn as I tapered the legs a bit during fitting/sewing.
• I used a wide hem on the hem panel to form cuffs.

Pocket Pressing Tips

• Cut a template from oak tag (manilla file folder), that is the size of the finished pocket.
• Use a scrap of pattern tissue to help form the pocket shape while pressing.
• Pattern tissue is made from wood chips (hence the unique brownish color), which makes it strong enough to withstand heat/steam/pressure so it will not tear as easily as plain tissue paper.
• Turn under the top edge and topstitch.
• Working at the ironing board, place the tissue underneath, then center the template on the pocket.
• Wrapping the tissue firmly around the fabric and template, press under the seam allowance
• Form the curves so the fabric is distributed evenly.
• Use a clapper to hold the seam allowance flat.
• Cover the design table with scrap paper.
• Cut a template from scrap paper to prevent spray from hitting the back side of the pocket.
• Use 505 Spray Adhesive, carefully spraying the seam allowance ONLY with a light coating of adhesive.
• Trim seam allowance if needed.
• Position the pocket on the garment and topstitch. The spray adhesive keeps the pocket in place while sewing and you can add pins for extra security.

Marcy's Versions

I used our Celestial Sky French Digital Stretch Woven for the print pant, and Ace Olive Stretch Woven for the olive pair shown below. I am wearing the olive version as I write and am loving the fabric and the pant!