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Tips for Working with Corduroy
It is OK to toss corduroy in the washer dryer to prepare for cutting. DO test a swatch first, just in case, as all machines give different results. I cut/tear a 6-9” strip, then cut that in half along the cross grain. I put the pieces in with a load of laundry, then put one in the dryer and air dry the other to see which works best. After sewing, turn inside out, launder gentle and air dry, touch up press. Use a shapr/denim/microtex needle in a size that relates to the weight of the fabric. Adjust the stitch length to the weight of the fabric. Use a longer stitch for a heavier cord. Cut the garment with the nap going ‘down’, cutting all pieces in the same direction I do NOT recommend cutting with the nap going ‘up’, This technique has had its ‘moments’ in the ‘70’s, but does not work. I’ve tried it, not a good idea as the fabric with nap running ‘up’ is not comfortable to wear or to sit in - crushes the nap when sitting and grabs the upholstery. Corduroy and velvet can ‘creep’ as you sew; the 2 naps grab each other. Use a walking foot to sew seams, stitching in the direction of the nap to prevent creeping. Use pins every half inch or so. I place the pins on the seamline, parallel to the cut edge and positioned to pull out as I sew. Or, if a seam is still creeping, hand baste, using silk thread and a diagonal basting stitch plus using a walking foot. Raise the presser foot if the fabric is creeping, smoothing it out by holding taut crosswise to the stitching line. Press with care, testing on scraps before working on the garment. Some cords are easy. Others can crush with too much pressure. Place a fluffy terry cloth towel on the ironing board as a base. Press using steam and light pressure from the iron. Test the amount of pressure on scraps so you have the feeling for pressing on the garment. Use a pressing cloth. A scrap of velvet works well with corduroy. Use a clapper after steam pressing to keep things flat without crushing. Do not pound, simply place the clapper in place while the area cools down. Topstitching can work on corduroy. Test for the best stitch length, and stitch with the direction of the nap using a walking foot. Serge the seams to help eliminate raveling and contain the small dots of fabric that fall off in cutting. Press as you sew. After stitching a seam, press flat as sewn, then press open. Test a swatch if you want to try a fusible interfacing to see if it crushes the pile. Consider using a plain fabric for facings. On a jacket or coat, consider lining the sleeves and making a half back lining with a smooth lining fabric.
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