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The Fearless Buttonhole Secret
Join me as I demonstrate how to make the perfect buttonhole. There are a few steps to the process, but if you do it right, you'll have the perfect buttonhole in no time at all. Take time to remove the bumps, and use handy time-tested tailoring tools like a clapper, a great iron, and clo-chalk. You can create buttonholes like the professionals do.
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How to cut stripe knit fabric on the bias
In this video I use Vogue Pattern 9057 to share simple secrets for cutting a stripe knit fabric on the bias. I'm making my version of the French mariner shirt. Join me as I share some of the best tips for laying fabric on the diagonal, and where to position the selvedge in the process.
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Making a Muslin Fabric
I recently received a question about making a 'muslin' for knit tops and t-shirts which leads me to share thoughts on what is a 'muslin' and how it relates to testing a pattern or design. Here is the question and my response including some thoughts on the process of making or using a muslin and facts about the fabric itself.
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Working with Silk
Pre-treating Silks are washable, but always test a swatch first to be sure you like the results. To test, I cut a 4-5” strip across the width of the fabric, and if it ravels, serge the raw edges. Then, cut in 3 sections and hand launder one piece, machine wash/cool/gentle on another, and wash/dry gentle on the last. Fragile and embellished silks may require dry cleaning. Silk organza is one fabric I NEVER machine wash/dry as it becomes much softer and wrinkled - though this may be a desired effect. I sometimes toss silk taffeta in the washer/dryer, which makes it a bit more cotton-y, this kicks back the silky shine and creates lovely all-over crinkles. I take it out of the dryer when it is just a bit damp, smooth it out, give a light press. You can then sew and press as usual, and it will retain the soft crinkles. After sewing, never put silk in the dryer again. Hand launder or wash gentle and air dry. I take silks out of the laundry while still very wet, hang on a hanger and pull and smooth the seams and hems, allowing the weight of the water to do the work, then touch up with an iron or not. Cutting Cut sheers and slippery fabrics on top of paper, squaring off the end to align the grain. Use tissue or pattern making paper. It is ok to tape the paper together to get the width of the fabric. Place the pattern on the fabric, pattern pieces on top, then pin and cut through all the layers. This keeps the shape of the pattern pieces so you can move them around to mark. Mark with tailor tacks, snips or tiny dots with a dressmaker's pencil. I avoid using tracing wheel/paper as it can leave marks Sewing Make samples with scraps to see which combination of needle size and thread works best. Sew with a sharp needle You can use silk thread, but a fine long staple polyester thread is a good choice too Test for iron temperature and whether the iron leaves marks if you press on the right side. Use an organza press cloth if needed
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Playing With Panel Prints — It’s All In the Cut
Panel prints have become a darling of the fashion world, so more and more are available to sewists. The obvious and simple thing is to simply place the panel dead center on a garment and be done. Take a look at two creative variations using our French digitally printed panel knits. Panels are great fun to play with when you consider other layouts and design options. Start with a pattern that has simple lines, ideally one you have already made especially if you are just beginning to hone your design skills. Both tops use Butterick pattern B6633.
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The Groovy Shacket Vogue 1689
Fun and easy to sew, my latest Vogue release can be worn as either a shirt or jacket, making it a ‘shacket’. Gwen and I dubbed it the ‘groovy shacket’ in a giddy moment as we developed the design. V1689 reflects styles I saw in Paris last spring in shirts, jackets and coats.
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Split Funnel Neck Tunic — Vogue 1637
It was cold when this pattern was being developed, and I longed for an easy, cozy tunic to wear over leggings or jeans (as well as layered over a camisole or thin t-shirt, or under a vest or jacket).
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Handmade Artisan Indian Cotton Kanthas
Kantha quilts have been made for centuries by poor Bengali women, who re-cycle old saris and clothes to make quilts to keep their families warm. More recently, some kantha is produced by women as a way to support their families, and in other cases co-operatives have been formed to offer right livelihood to women as an alternative to prostitution.
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The Blank Canvas Dress — Vogue 9329
The working studio name for this dress is ‘the stop-me-in-the-street dress’ because that is what has happened to me when I wear it…and I am no longer thin and young! Our testers also referred to it as The Blank Canvas Dress as it lends itself to combining different fabrics, patterns, colors as well as to surface design.
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