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Stabilizing Knits
Even really good sewers are afraid of knits. They're afraid of the knit stretching and not being able to control it. Right from the get-go, you want to build in some stabilizing. In this video, I show you how to add fusible tricot to shoulder seams. It will keep your neckline from stretching while you work. Use a lightweight tear-away stabilizer like Totally Stable on the underside of the dart to keep the narrow fold of the dart smooth and the stitches even. This will prevent stretching and keep the end of the dart from being sucked down into the needle hole. You can change the stitch length to small stitches for the last 1/2 inch at the tip of the dart to secure the threads without the need to tie them off. I work on a tailor's ham a lot. I press the dart flat to blend in the stitches. Then you want to press your darts, going up. It will give a more youthful appearance, as you wear it. Remember that you want to make your darts as invisible as possible; all but disappearing when you wear your garment. Sewing with the interfacing on top will keep your fabric from stretching, buckling, and puckering as you sew. Threading your pins through before you begin will help to hold your pieces in place. After stitching, press each of the shoulder seams flat and then open, toward the back, to further set the seams. You can use any width double needle. I prefer the 4.0mm #12/80 size. You can wind wooly nylon in the bobbin, and use black for dark colors, and beige for light. The wooly nylon in the bobbin keeps the knit from stretching in most cases. BUT…if you see your fabric stretching, use stay stitching and as you sew, apply pressure to the back of the presser foot, using one finger and an even tension. The potential for knit sleeves growing as you work with them is very real. But little sticky dots along with fusible web (pressed in the stable vs. stretchy direction) for the entire length of the sleeve can help you avoid this problem.
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Sewing & Pressing Tips for Velvet
Sewing Velvet Mark with tailor’s tacks.Use embroidery thread—it doesn’t pull out easily. Take one stitch only through both layers of the fabric, leaving ¾” tails. Then gently separate the layers and clip the threads to mark both sides cleanly. This traditional method keeps markings visible without bruising the pile.Or, mark with a dressmaker’s pencil.Make a small dot at each marking. To deepen the color and help it last, lick the pencil tip lightly before marking. This simple trick adds contrast on plush or dark fabrics.Prevent shifting as you sew.The biggest challenge with velvet is keeping the layers from moving. The best solution is to use a walking foot in combination with a temporary spray adhesive such as 505 Spray.Apply adhesive correctly.Cover your work surface with paper, and carefully mask off the seam allowance with strips of paper. Spray a light, even coat of adhesive within the seam allowance only. Then align the edges, right sides together, and stitch as usual.A couture secret revealed.It’s a little-known secret of couture houses that seamstresses have relied on similar spray adhesives for years to stabilize velvet and other delicate fabrics. The result: smooth seams, aligned pile, and professional finish—fast, effective, and beautifully precise. Pressing Velvet Keep a light hand.Velvet demands delicacy—press, don’t press down. Let the heat and steam do the work rather than pressure from the iron.Use plenty of steam.Generous steam helps relax the pile and set seams without crushing the fabric’s surface. Hover the iron just above the velvet.Finish with a clapper.After steaming, lightly press with a clapper to lock the shape in place as the fabric cools. It sets the seam beautifully while preserving that soft, dimensional sheen velvet is known for. Happy Sewing!
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Core Wardrobe Outfit Contest Winner
Congratulations Eve Kovacs, the winner of a $200 gift card in Marcy's Core Wardrobe Outfit Contest.
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