I'm excited to share this Vogue Pattern for fall, a fun flattering top/tunic. The studio working title for this pattern is, 'The Godet Swing Tunic'. Designed for knits - you could use almost any weight from a light jersey to ponte. In the garments for the pattern envelope I used a light sweater knit, a poly/lycra ITY and a ponte.
Details
Lightly fitted in the upper chest and bust, skims the waist and hips.
Comes in 2 lengths.
Has a pleated godet inserted at the hem, a flattering detail.
You could use a woven for the godet, probably not for the neck band, though I did not try it.
Fitted neck band is faced with stitched down tucks that frames the face. The tucks are stitched in at the very end.
Make the neck band and godet in a contrasting or matching fabric.
The sleeves have a faced vent (a '40's detail I use in many of my patterns), or a faced hem roll up or not.
Version 1
Shown here in the shorter version, made in a French digital print on a light weight viscose/lycra French terry sweater knit, accented with a light weight knit stripe at the neck and godets.
Version 2
In a double faced wool blend ponte in the longer version. A solid color shows the seaming and design details.
Version 3
is a poly/lycra ITY knit print with a border along each edge which we incorporated into the design. Shown in the longer version.
Marcy's Version
In a viscose/elastine jersey from my stash, made in the longer version.
Sewing and Cutting Notes
If you cut your fabric on the crossgrain in knit which does not have much stretch, use a 1” seam allowance at the side seams and adjust the garment to fit as you sew.The garment is designed with plenty of easy in the bust, but a generous seam allowance will permit adjustments during construction.
Optional: Interface the neck bands with a light weight fusible interfacing. Test first, some fabrics might not need interfacing. Test to determine which direction to run the interfacing, whether to have a bit of stretch or better if it is stable.
When sewing knits, I use a walking foot, makes everything much easier!
Godet Tips
Hem both the garment and godet before attaching the godet to the side seam - see video below for hemming tips.
The godet is stitched to the open side seam, then the seam is stitched from the top of the godet to the underarm.
Once the godet and side seam are sewn and pressed, a pleat is formed in the godet as shown in the photos below. The fold is pressed, then the pleat is secured by stitching in the ditch.
Hemming Tips
Use a spray adhesive like 505 Spray to hold the hem in place as you machine stitch, either with a single or double needle
I find it is often better to use the raw edge on a knit since serging can sometimes cause stretching. test test test...
Protect the table surface from overspray with a layer of paper.
Apply a light layer of adhesive spray to the hem width.
Use Paper to mask off the hem area.
Carefully stick the hem in place and it is ready for machine or hand stitching.
OK to give the hem a touch up press after applying the adhesive.
Re-introducing Marcy’s design, V9140, aka the “Cozy Coat,” designed for both comfort and elegance. This versatile piece wraps effortlessly around your body, keeping you snug and warm, while also flowing gracefully when worn open. Featuring an elegant hood that can be styled up for extra warmth but lies in flat folds when worn down.While originally designed for knit fabrics, it has enough ease to be made from a woven. A soft drape is important. Consider that the wrong side will show. If you choose a woven, consider sizing up to accommodate layering over other garments. Fabrics shown on the pattern envelope are wool knits.Shown here in a mid-weight ottoman-like ribbed double knit that worked perfectly in the design. Other fabric options range from lighter-weight knits to beefy boiled wool. Would be sumptuous in mohair or cashmere, but could also work for warmer weather in a linen knit or stable jersey. Depending on the fabric, this could be worn outdoors or in, and makes a perfect toss-on top layer for everyday or for a special occasion.Sewing and fitting this coat is a breeze. The original pattern had a slightly narrow wrist opening, so we made a small adjustment: we altered it to finish at 5 inches to accommodate garments layered underneath. When making the welt pocket, be sure to position the welt so the pocket opens in the right direction! If you are new to making welt pockets, make a test sample first. Another option is to substitute patch pockets instead.
Vogue 9140 in a cozy ribbed double knit.
Vogue 7746 sewn in a beautiful coffee brown and black polyester mini Ottoman. V7746 was one of Marcy's first and best-selling patterns for Vogue. It is now out of print, but you can check for availability on eBay and Etsy. This is a fantastic jacket/vest pattern in a variety of fabrics, ranging from silk to denim to wool. I made my original in silk dupioni.
Cutting/Sewing Tips:
The original pattern calls for quilting the outer layer and self-lining the entire garment.
The jacket and vest can be made to layer together.
Changed the pattern by extending the front zigzag 5".
Made a 5" deep sleeve facing.
Added a front facing.
Made a 4" deep hem.
Eliminated buttons/buttonholes because when I tried the jacket on, it hangs beautifully as is, no need for a closure - always love to keep options open to the very end.
Ottoman Fabric was perfect for this design, and could have been cut either lengthwise or crosswise. The fabric is smooth with a lovely drape and hang, and can work in all seasons. The inspiration for the design of the pattern comes from a spectacular Jeanne Lanvin 1936 jacket, featured in an inspiring (must-have) book, Modern Fashion In Detail. Back in my early days working with Vogue Patterns, the Design Director and I would collaborate on a design concept. Once we settled on an idea, I would figure out how to execute it for a contemporary sewist. These early patterns and directions are chock full of hands-on sewing instructions and are worth collecting!A few pages from the book that were my starting point. The pattern with my rough sketch idea for adding 5” onto the front zig-zag edge. I often draw and make notes on the pattern itself.
Both the jacket and vest in the pattern are silk dupioni. Both jacket and vest, as shown on the pattern envelope, were machine quilted in a single layer using fine wool batting and stitched with silk thread using a fine sharp needle.
Then the garment is lined to the edge with self fabric.
Beading on the vest was done before the garment was constructed. I spent a Christmas holiday vacation in Portland beading the garment sections before constructing the jacket.
Both garments use bound buttonholes, as did the original Lanvin jacket.
Happy sewing!
Butterick 7023 made in a stunning Dutch-printed French Terry knit.
One panel of Van Gogh is just the right size for a t-shirt or top with room for pattern play. Play with the paper pattern on top of the fabric pattern/print before starting to cut. Use a simple style as the fabric print is the focus, not the style.
Structural changes to B7023:
eliminated front vertical seams.
eliminated offset back seams and added a center back seam.
added 5" to sleeve length to make the change from ¾ sleeve to long sleeve.
added 1/2" to the neckline to raise all around.
Design decisions:
I started with the word ‘Vincent’, placing it to show prominently on the top sleeve.
Then I worked with the other pattern pieces, moving them around so they all fit and I was happy with the way the design worked. The fabric is so beautiful that you can not really make a mistake with your layout!Happy sewing!
