BLOG

In this 2-part video tutorial, Vogue Patterns designer and fabric finder Marcy Tilton demonstrates how to sew knit hems using 505 spray and double needles.

The studio working name for this is the ‘square armhole top’. Versatile, it goes from warm to cool weather, indoors and out, is fun and easy to fit and sew.

The studio working name for this new Spring 18 Marcy Tilton pattern is 'The Tuck Tank Tunic'. Vogue 9317 is versatile, flattering, fun to sew, easy to fit and designed for both knit and woven fabrics. For the pattern envelope we used a polka dot Japanese double gauze, a drapey red rayon/lycra jersey and white handkerchief linen. Choose a fabric with drape - silk or rayon crepe, light weight ponte, linen blends. The piecing lends itself to color blocking - and I've been imagining a version in stripes with the stripes going different ways in the pattern pieces...or using a collage of different but related stripes.

When I asked the design director at Vogue for suggestions for this season’s pattern, he replied, ‘Closer to the body….’ and VOGUE 1660 is the result.

Always in style and always being re-invented, the classic jean jacket can be worn by men, women, children and is a wardrobe staple. After a recent ParisTilton tour, Marcy and I roamed the streets of Paris in search of fresh inspiration for a new twist on the classic jean jacket. We saw many blue denim Levi type jackets, but every so often we’d spy a more interesting version, often stopping to chat with the wearer. We sat in sidewalk cafes people watching and making notes and my new pattern, Butterick 6719 is the result.

Vogue 9352, the ‘Duster Coat’ is one of my favorite layering pieces, an unlined cross between a jacket, a shirt and a coat, I find the loose fit, swing shape, length and neckline work over t-shirts, pants, dresses and slips on easily over a vest. You can dress it up or down. For the pattern envelope, I used a Japanese denim, a nylon taffeta, and a Chanel-esque tweed. It would work in rainwear, brocade, jacquard, linen, silk taffeta, velveteen, corduroy or a stable knit like ponte.

Sewn straight from the pattern with my own personal adjustments. To double check the fit, I started by staystitching the neckline, basting the shoulder seams and pinning in the side seams. After trying on the shell and checking things out, I lowered the front neck edge 1" and finished the neck with a narrow single layer bias binding. The pattern instructions call for a bias facing or a small standup collar. I wanted the tunic to layer under jackets and sweaters, so went for the thinnest flattest neck edge finish. I changed the order of construction a bit to do this. Left the left shoulder seam open for a few inches at the neck edge so the bias could easily be applied while the neckline is flat.

Because all of life is a journey my intention is to create designs that travel well through life, whether staying at home, going to a job, or out and about exploring the world. I travel a lot - am on a plane an average of once a month, and I want my travel clothes to function on the move as well as for days at home in the studio. I seek designs that can be dressed up or down so that the clothes I sew are worn and loved.

Because all of life is a journey my intention is to create designs that travel well through life, whether staying at home, going to a job, or out and about exploring the world. I travel a lot - am on a plane an average of once a month, and I want my travel clothes to function on the move as well as for days at home in the studio. I seek designs that can be dressed up or down so that the clothes I sew are worn and loved.

Vogue 9322 vest is versatile, flattering and functional and continues my 2018 theme to create designs that are pieces that layer together and build a wardrobe that can travel, work for everyday life and crossover the seasons. In my own wardrobe I have 3 versions with plans for more. A big plus is that the vest works in both knit and woven fabrics.

Loving summer at home where my wardrobe needs are basic, but I still like to play at creative dressing. One summer design focus is ‘work’ clothes, a relatively unexplored category, for me as I tend to make things that are too precious or too dressy. It promises to be hot, and I’ve been craving soft light yet clothes with pockets in fabrics that make me feel good and at the same time that can stand up to daily home/work life in the country, where I cook, clean, sit at the computer, take photos, play with animals, and sometimes sew.

I'm excited to share this Vogue Pattern for fall, a fun flattering top/tunic. The studio working title for this pattern is, 'The Godet Swing Tunic'. Designed for knits - you could use almost any weight from a light jersey to ponte. In the garments for the pattern envelope I used a light sweater knit, a poly/lycra ITY and a ponte.

Easy to make, fun to wear and flattering to many figures, the studio name for Vogue 9254 is The Swirl Dress, named for the curved seams and easy fluid movement. Semi fitted through the bust, it skims the waist, has extra ease in the hips and ends in a bell shape at the hem, blending the best of a dress and a t-shirt.

After coming across an eye-popping $1100 Liberty Tana Lawn tunic while snoop-shopping noodle stories, I decided to make my own version.

London-based Liberty is a must-shop destination for bespoke British fashion and fabrics. Their trademarked Tana Lawn is a breathable and fluid cotton fabric which behaves like silk. Liberty of London has been perfecting Tana Lawn for over a century, and it shows. The exceptional quality of Italian-milled Liberty Tana Lawn sets the world standard for fine cotton fabrics.

Unlike storied fabrics with ancient origins, bouclé is a uniquely modern knit born of 20th Century fashion royalty, the legendary French designer Coco Chanel.

There are many sources for making a full bust adjustment (FBA) online. I looked around the internet, landed on one, experimented and made adjustments. There IS a certain amount of trial and error here. Around this establishment we refer to making a FBA as, “bibbity, bobbity, boob”!

Inside secrets from Marcy Tilton on how to construct the layered pieced collar for her shirt design V1784 for Vogue Patterns.

How Much to Buy? How to Pre-Treat and Clean? There is no 'magic bullet' answer to either question but there are simple guidelines but no hard and fast rules. Use common sense, experiment and frame the question to thinking like a designer.

No matter the pattern, I always change it straight out of the envelope. Here I alter a Christine Jonson pattern, #1025, Base Wear Two. I like this pattern a lot. I also find Sandra Betzina, Burda (and of course, Marcy and Katherine Tilton) patters run true to body measurements. The changes I demonstrate in these videos will help you customize any T-shirt pattern to your own dimensions.