I'm excited to share this Vogue Pattern for fall, a fun flattering top/tunic. The studio working title for this pattern is, 'The Godet Swing Tunic'. Designed for knits - you could use almost any weight from a light jersey to ponte. In the garments for the pattern envelope I used a light sweater knit, a poly/lycra ITY and a ponte.
Details
Lightly fitted in the upper chest and bust, skims the waist and hips.
Comes in 2 lengths.
Has a pleated godet inserted at the hem, a flattering detail.
You could use a woven for the godet, probably not for the neck band, though I did not try it.
Fitted neck band is faced with stitched down tucks that frames the face. The tucks are stitched in at the very end.
Make the neck band and godet in a contrasting or matching fabric.
The sleeves have a faced vent (a '40's detail I use in many of my patterns), or a faced hem roll up or not.
Version 1
Shown here in the shorter version, made in a French digital print on a light weight viscose/lycra French terry sweater knit, accented with a light weight knit stripe at the neck and godets.
Version 2
In a double faced wool blend ponte in the longer version. A solid color shows the seaming and design details.
Version 3
is a poly/lycra ITY knit print with a border along each edge which we incorporated into the design. Shown in the longer version.
Marcy's Version
In a viscose/elastine jersey from my stash, made in the longer version.
Sewing and Cutting Notes
If you cut your fabric on the crossgrain in knit which does not have much stretch, use a 1” seam allowance at the side seams and adjust the garment to fit as you sew.The garment is designed with plenty of easy in the bust, but a generous seam allowance will permit adjustments during construction.
Optional: Interface the neck bands with a light weight fusible interfacing. Test first, some fabrics might not need interfacing. Test to determine which direction to run the interfacing, whether to have a bit of stretch or better if it is stable.
When sewing knits, I use a walking foot, makes everything much easier!
Godet Tips
Hem both the garment and godet before attaching the godet to the side seam - see video below for hemming tips.
The godet is stitched to the open side seam, then the seam is stitched from the top of the godet to the underarm.
Once the godet and side seam are sewn and pressed, a pleat is formed in the godet as shown in the photos below. The fold is pressed, then the pleat is secured by stitching in the ditch.
Hemming Tips
Use a spray adhesive like 505 Spray to hold the hem in place as you machine stitch, either with a single or double needle
I find it is often better to use the raw edge on a knit since serging can sometimes cause stretching. test test test...
Protect the table surface from overspray with a layer of paper.
Apply a light layer of adhesive spray to the hem width.
Use Paper to mask off the hem area.
Carefully stick the hem in place and it is ready for machine or hand stitching.
OK to give the hem a touch up press after applying the adhesive.
