GIVERNY

TWILL WOOL CHALLIS
DESIGNER DEADSTOCK

GLORIA

EMBROIDERED VELVET KNIT

HETTIE

TANA LAWN COTTON
LIBERTY OF LONDON

SLANTED DOOR

JACQUARD KNIT
DESIGNER DEADSTOCK

MIRAMAR

AERO FINISH LINEN

V9193 in cotton flannels

It has been SO cold here in Oregon that I have been longing for soft, cozy, comfortable clothes - but with flair! I'm not a flannel collar shirt person, but wanted something part t-shirt, part, tunic, part loungewear to layer under vests and sweaters. I started with Vogue 9193 and our Black Speckles Cotton Flannel plus a cut of checked flannel and knit stripe from my stash. Playing and planning as I cut, I placed the checks on the bias and used the soft knit at neck and wrist. LOVE the cool drop pocket!

EBB TIDE

BAMBOO RAYON JERSEY KNIT

Wonderful watercolor with a Cezanne feel in shades of blue with green accents on white, digitally printed on a fine quality rayon jersey knit. Lightweight, opaque, with 4-way stretch, a cool dry hand, liquid drape.
Marcy says, 'perfect for a t-shirt, tunic or dress to wear with jeans or velvet, all through the holidays and into spring.'

SPLASH

POLY BLEND DOUBLE KNIT

Fine quality double knit in black, white and shades of gray with an appealing double border of flowers and stripes. Mid-weight, stable, opaque, with a smooth hand, soft supple drape, crosswise stretch, 10" repeat and no rolling at the cut edge so cutting and sewing is easy.
Marcy says, 'Love how the striped borders morph into the abstract design. I can see using this stripes at the center edge on a cardigan or kimono, or run them along the hem on a skirt or pant.'

VISAGE

ITALIAN COTTON KNIT

Vibrant visages in multi-colors with black form a graceful grid on a white cotton knit. Italian designer deadstock is light/mid-weight, with crosswise stretch, light recovery, a smooth hand, soft drape, 16" repeat, and rolling at the cut edge.
Marcy says, 'This fabric is a personal favorite. Emphasize the strong playful graphic with simple lines and few seams. Would make a fun classic t-shirt with contrasting neck binding in black or a stripe.'

DESIGNER DEADSTOCK

Vogue 2067 Jacket

Marcy says:

For the pattern envelope on VOGUE 2067 I used a woven, WINE AND ROSES, a double-layered designer wool from an Italian mill. The body of the jacket is a beefy wool jersey (sold out).

The beauty of this slouchy oversized hoodie is that while the body requires a knit, you can use either a knit or wovern for the front panel.

HENNA ITALIAN WOOL PLAID

Marcy says:
Plaids are a classic fall fabric that are a strong trend in Paris this fall. I'm loving this rich rust and black plaid for a coat or jacket. This is a balanced plaid, the simplest plaid to work with.

To figure the extra yardage needed for a plaid garment, multiply the repeat by the number of main pattern pieces. For example, if the repeat is 4" and you have 4 main/large pattern pieces, you would need a minimum of 16 extra inches.

TIPS FOR WORKING WITH PLAIDS

To match plaids, cut single thickness, starting with the main pattern piece at center front or back, placing CF/CB centered between (NOT ON), a dominant color or line, then cut one piece at a time, using the cut out piece as a pattern piece for the next, flipping, so you get a left and right side. I draw the plaid on the pattern pieces to match at side seams and notches on sleeves. If the plaid is unbalanced, cut as for a nap. Sew with a walking foot to prevent shifting. Some pieces like pockets, yoke and collar can be cut on the bias.

alexandra burnout velvet knit

Marcy says:

The perfect antidote to the dark days of November and December are fabrics that catch the light. Velvets are perfect for now and all through the holidays. Alexandra is a radiant abstract burnout/devoré in shades of blue from navy to turquoise with a grid of patterned velvet rectangles.

I'm visioning a t-shirt or tunic, dress, or kimono jacket, and would also make a lovely scarf or shawl - think holiday gifts!

sewing tips for velvet

Mark with tailor’s tacks.
Use a walking foot in combination with spray adhesive like 505 Spray.
Cover your work surface with paper, mask off the seam allowance with paper, then spray lightly within the seam allowance.
Line up right sides together so the adhesive holds the layers and stitch.
It is a little known secret of couture houses that for years the seamstresses have relied on similar spray adhesives for just this purpose.
Pressing: Keep a light hand, use a LOT of steam, and use a clapper.

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