Tunic — Vogue 9300

Because all of life is a journey my intention is to create designs that travel well through life, whether staying at home, going to a job, or out and about exploring the world. I travel a lot - am on a plane an average of once a month, and I want my travel clothes to function on the move as well as for days at home in the studio. I seek designs that can be dressed up or down so that the clothes I sew are worn and loved.

Features of the V9300 Tunic:

• semi-fitted in the bust
• skims the waist and hips
• two lengths
• two sleeve lengths, ¾ and full
• has an asymmetrical neck band/collar
• asymmetrical seaming front and back
• has an ‘extension’ on the front, a detail designed to give depth and dimension to the garment, it can hang free either inside or outside the top

Design Ideas

• extend the length to make a dress
• make it sleeveless (raise the armhole approx 1” and re-draw the shoulder seam, bind the edge)
• face the hem edge
• add a small secret pocket at the front extension
• leave hem/sleeve edges raw

Fabric suggestions

I used a poly/lycra ITY jersey for the print version, and a rayon/lycra stripe for the other version, others include:

• ponte
• cotton/lycra
• rayon or viscose/lycra
• ITY poly/lycra knits
• sweatshirt knits
• lightweight scuba
• wool jersey

Fitting suggestions

• As always, tissue fit/measure the pattern so it is as close to being a good fit as you can get
• Do a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) if you need one
• Determine which length works best for you before cutting out as you cannot adjust the length at the hem.

Sewing Tips

Collar/Neckband

True confessions, I had to re-do this on a couple of the versions I made. How this will ‘sit’ depends on the amount of stretch in your fabric and if you cut it on the lengthwise or cross grain. I recommend that you baste it in place and try it on to see how it works with the fabric and on you. You can make it wider/taller.

• Or, place the opening at center front
• Or,substitute a standard t-shirt neckband
• Or use any favorite neck finish

Sleeves

• Sew the sleeves in last and stitch them in the round. I find this makes a subtle and superior difference to sewing the sleeve flat - even in a t-shirt!
• Press up the sleeve hem facing
• OPTIONAL: Leave the sleeve hem as a raw edge
• Stitch sleeve seams, press open or serge.
• Hand stitch sleeve hem.
• Stitch the sleeves to the garment working with the garment on top.
• Most of us learned to set a sleeve with the sleeve on top, but this is so much easier; it is working with the give of the knit, so the ease just disappears.
• You need only 3 pins, one at each end and one at the shoulder seam, positioned on the seam so you can pull them out as you sew.
• Stitch, easing as you sew, keeping edges even and stitching in a straight line.
• Press the seam flat as sewn, then, working on a ham or the end of the ironing board, press the seams toward the cap of the sleeve and touch up from the right side.
• Don’t trim the seam, the seam width ‘supports’ the cap of the sleeve.
• You can serge the two seams together, keeping the shaping you pressed in, serging right along the edge to maintain the seam width. Touch up press again.
• It is fine to leave the seams raw, or do a second line of straight stitching 1/4 inch from the first within the seam allowance, and press again.
• Do not zigzag, this can stretch and distort the edge.
• Press seam allowances toward sleeve, shaping cap as you press.

Marcy's Versions

I used our Domino Danish Knit (sold out), and Clair de Lune Danish Knit for the black and gray version and Pascal Panel French Digital Knit for the other (took 2 panels).