Mud Cloth Silk Jacquard Woven

Soft black (with a brown cast), on one side, brown on the back, with a smooth hand and crisp drape. Rare and unusual in this animal jacquard weave. This fabric will age naturally, the crisp mud finish on the right side has a patina, a crackle, so the brown on the back side shows through - part of the organic nature and appeal of the fabric. It will soften a bit over time, but retain the crisp nature. Deadstock from an LA designer. Right for a jacket, coat, vest, kimono, accessories, home dec.

Rare to find this traditional textile that originated in China dating back to the Ming Dynasty using a special iron rich mud. Must read article here for fascinating details. In Paris, I visit the tiny (always friendly), Sophie Hong shop in the Palais Royal to admire and examine the garments made from this special esoteric fabric. Watch this splendid Sophie Hong video to see a fashion show with examples of mud cloth from her line.

Limited quantity, no returns on this fabric.

China
100% silk
51"

The process:

1. The yams/dyestuffs are dried, finely ground, and simmered in a large clay basin until the water is a deep orange-brown color.

2. The silk fabric is delicately soaked in the dye, and laid out in a large grass field to dry. The soak and dry process is repeated about thirty times depending on the depth of color one wants to achieve!

3. The now fire orange fabric is laid out by a river and mopped with mud, which gives the fabric its buttery texture.

4. The silk is rinsed in the river and set to dry through midday and overnight to set the dye.

5. Finally, a thin layer of anthracite coal is applied to cover the silk with a precious varnish.

Like Hawaii’s hundred words for rain and Arctic natives' four hundred words for snow, the Chinese have several — approximately nine — words for the bi-colored mud silks. From xiang-yun-shā, meaning perfumed cloud clothing, fragrant cloud silk cloth, and singing silk cloth, the art of mud dyeing is once again in fashion.