Tips For Working With Corduroy

Tips for working with corduroy

• It is OK to toss corduroy in the washer dryer to prepare for cutting. DO test a swatch first, just in case, as all machines give different results. I cut/tear a 6-9” strip, then cut that in half along the cross grain. I put the pieces in with a load of laundry, then put one in the dryer and air dry the other to see which works best.
• After sewing, turn inside out, launder gentle and air dry, touch up press.
• Use a shapr/denim/microtex needle in a size that relates to the weight of the fabric.
• Adjust the stitch length to the weight of the fabric. Use a longer stitch for a heavier cord.
• Cut the garment with the nap going ‘down’, cutting all pieces in the same direction
• I do NOT recommend cutting with the nap going ‘up’, This technique has had its ‘moments’ in the ‘70’s, but does not work. I’ve tried it, not a good idea as the fabric with nap running ‘up’ is not comfortable to wear or to sit in - crushes the nap when sitting and grabs the upholstery.
• Corduroy and velvet can ‘creep’ as you sew; the 2 naps grab each other. Use a walking foot to sew seams, stitching in the direction of the nap to prevent creeping.
• Use pins every half inch or so. I place the pins on the seamline, parallel to the cut edge and positioned to pull out as I sew.
• Or, if a seam is still creeping, hand baste, using silk thread and a diagonal basting stitch plus using a walking foot. Raise the presser foot if the fabric is creeping, smoothing it out by holding taut crosswise to the stitching line.
• Press with care, testing on scraps before working on the garment. Some cords are easy. Others can crush with too much pressure.
• Place a fluffy terry cloth towel on the ironing board as a base.
• Press using steam and light pressure from the iron. Test the amount of pressure on scraps so you have the feeling for pressing on the garment.
• Use a pressing cloth. A scrap of velvet works well with corduroy.
• Use a clapper after steam pressing to keep things flat without crushing. Do not pound, simply place the clapper in place while the area cools down.
• Topstitching can work on corduroy. Test for the best stitch length, and stitch with the direction of the nap using a walking foot.
• Serge the seams to help eliminate raveling and contain the small dots of fabric that fall off in cutting.
• Press as you sew. After stitching a seam, press flat as sewn, then press open.
• Test a swatch if you want to try a fusible interfacing to see if it crushes the pile.
• Consider using a plain fabric for facings.
• On a jacket or coat, consider lining the sleeves and making a half back lining with a smooth lining fabric.