Sew Different Kusuma Jacket
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Sew & Tell Winner — March 2026
Jumpsuit/Flight Suit Par Excellence Love Love Love this standout version of a jumpsuit - the maker refers to it as her version of a flight suit. In her own words, 'I made this from your Genji Stretch Denim using the Closet Core Patterns Blanca No. 22. I added belted ankles and patches of vintage reclaimed kimono fabrics (chest, center back and shoulder badges). I feel like 'Top Gun' in this!' 'I fell in love with the idea of a 'Top Gun' flight suit with my own spin. I used pieces of vintage kimono fabrics for appliques on the center back, shoulder patches and chest badges. I added extra pockets for my phone and wallet.' 'I've been sewing for myself since I was about twelve (over 50 years!) and have pursued embellishment techniques including silk painting, ribbon embroidery, stenciling, foiling (saw a tutorial you did!), weaving, dyeing, quilting - basically anything I can do to make something more unique to my style. Yvonne Porcella (painting and dyeing fabric) and Natalie Chanin are inspirations, as are your own patterns (V8876, V8813 and V9035), Lynn Mizono (v1312) and Tina Givens.' Marcy says, I love this piece - for several reasons, it is creative, fun, an unexpected blend of fabric and style, and what takes it over the top is the beautifully executed craftsmanship!'
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Inkwash Indigo Shirt
Butterick 6771 in Inkwash Indigo Japanese Cottonby Katherine Tilton Katherine used one of her tried and true favorite shirt patterns, B6771, one she knows inside out and uses as a basic. Adjustments made to the pattern already include: A full bust adjustment. Lengthen view A. How much length varies with the fabric and/or other pattern adjustments, usually about 3”. Adjust the length of the left side pattern piece that calls for scallop edged fabric. 2” for a hem is added when using non-scallop edge fabric Add a simple cuff. Add a pocket on both side seams. Adjustments made to this version Used only the left front and left back pattern pieces for the body of the shirt. Eliminate the left back piece seam. Cut double on the fold. Eliminate the left front seam. Cut the two fronts and front placket in one piece. To do this the vertical seam allowance on the placket is overlapped on the vertical seam allowance on the center front piece, which is overlapped on the vertical seam allowance of the side front piece. Creating new pattern pieces simplifies the cutting process. Note: I do not always follow my own advice/instructions… Cut the collar on the bias so it is softer than if cut on the straight grain. The Japanese cotton fabric stitches up beautifully. I was happy to have the perfect buttons in my stash.
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Roslyn Tunic
This simple and elegant top is The Roslyn tunic from Style Arc Patterns, made in silk matka. Silk matka is produced from broken silk cocoons - the silk worm has escaped, so the silk is hand spun, not reeled, resulting in a soft, slubbed, lightly textured hand and supple drape. The silk fibers are spun together by hand without removing the sericin from the fibers, which helps keep the yarns thick while retaining their extremely soft texture. Because of the skills it takes to create this silk it is hard to find and manufacture. One touch reveals an appealing hand with a quiet luster that is at once rustic and elegant. The floating pocket detail adds dimension and is surprisingly simple to sew. The faced and vented hem finish works perfectly, can be work as a ⅞ length or rolled up as a ¾ length sleeve. I suspect that this fabric comes from older stock as the supplier is retiring and keeps 'finding' fabrics in his warehouse. At an wholesale fabric show recently, I was buying silks from a favorite Indian supplier, a family business and I asked about silk matka. The older uncle said that silk matka is disappearing because the workers are aging out, so it is now so expensive he no longer stocks it.
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