The Godet Swing Tunic — Vogue 9272

I'm excited to share this Vogue Pattern for fall, a fun flattering top/tunic. The studio working title for this pattern is, 'The Godet Swing Tunic'. Designed for knits - you could use almost any weight from a light jersey to ponte. In the garments for the pattern envelope I used a light sweater knit, a poly/lycra ITY and a ponte.

Details

• Lightly fitted in the upper chest and bust, skims the waist and hips.
• Comes in 2 lengths.
• Has a pleated godet inserted at the hem, a flattering detail.
• You could use a woven for the godet, probably not for the neck band, though I did not try it.
• Fitted neck band is faced with stitched down tucks that frames the face. The tucks are stitched in at the very end.
• Make the neck band and godet in a contrasting or matching fabric.
• The sleeves have a faced vent (a '40's detail I use in many of my patterns), or a faced hem roll up or not.

Version 1

Shown here in the shorter version, made in a French digital print on a light weight viscose/lycra French terry sweater knit, accented with a light weight knit stripe at the neck and godets.

Version 2

In a double faced wool blend ponte in the longer version. A solid color shows the seaming and design details.

Version 3

is a poly/lycra ITY knit print with a border along each edge which we incorporated into the design. Shown in the longer version.

Marcy's Version

In a viscose/elastine jersey from my stash, made in the longer version.

Sewing and Cutting Notes

• If you cut your fabric on the crossgrain in knit which does not have much stretch, use a 1” seam allowance at the side seams and adjust the garment to fit as you sew.The garment is designed with plenty of easy in the bust, but a generous seam allowance will permit adjustments during construction.
• Optional: Interface the neck bands with a light weight fusible interfacing. Test first, some fabrics might not need interfacing. Test to determine which direction to run the interfacing, whether to have a bit of stretch or better if it is stable.
• When sewing knits, I use a walking foot, makes everything much easier!

Godet Tips

• Hem both the garment and godet before attaching the godet to the side seam - see video below for hemming tips.
• The godet is stitched to the open side seam, then the seam is stitched from the top of the godet to the underarm.
• Once the godet and side seam are sewn and pressed, a pleat is formed in the godet as shown in the photos below. The fold is pressed, then the pleat is secured by stitching in the ditch.

Hemming Tips

• Use a spray adhesive like 505 Spray to hold the hem in place as you machine stitch, either with a single or double needle
• I find it is often better to use the raw edge on a knit since serging can sometimes cause stretching. test test test...
• Protect the table surface from overspray with a layer of paper.
• Apply a light layer of adhesive spray to the hem width.
• Use Paper to mask off the hem area.
• Carefully stick the hem in place and it is ready for machine or hand stitching.
• OK to give the hem a touch up press after applying the adhesive.
• In the studio with Gwen Spencer and Marcy