Tunic — Vogue 9300

Tunic — Vogue 9300 - Marcy Tilton Fabrics
Because all of life is a journey my intention is to create designs that travel well through life, whether staying at home, going to a job, or out and about exploring the world. I travel a lot - am on a plane an average of once a month, and I want my travel clothes to function on the move as well as for days at home in the studio. I seek designs that can be dressed up or down so that the clothes I sew are worn and loved.

Features of the V9300 Tunic:

  • semi-fitted in the bust
  • skims the waist and hips
  • two lengths
  • two sleeve lengths, ¾ and full
  • has an asymmetrical neck band/collar
  • asymmetrical seaming front and back
  • has an ‘extension’ on the front, a detail designed to give depth and dimension to the garment, it can hang free either inside or outside the top

Design Ideas

  • extend the length to make a dress
  • make it sleeveless (raise the armhole approx 1” and re-draw the shoulder seam, bind the edge)
  • face the hem edge
  • add a small secret pocket at the front extension
  • leave hem/sleeve edges raw

Fabric suggestions

I used a poly/lycra ITY jersey for the print version, and a rayon/lycra stripe for the other version, others include:

  • ponte
  • cotton/lycra
  • rayon or viscose/lycra
  • ITY poly/lycra knits
  • sweatshirt knits
  • lightweight scuba
  • wool jersey

Fitting suggestions

  • As always, tissue fit/measure the pattern so it is as close to being a good fit as you can get
  • Do a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) if you need one
  • Determine which length works best for you before cutting out as you cannot adjust the length at the hem.

Sewing Tips


True confessions, I had to re-do this on a couple of the versions I made. How this will ‘sit’ depends on the amount of stretch in your fabric and if you cut it on the lengthwise or cross grain. I recommend that you baste it in place and try it on to see how it works with the fabric and on you. You can make it wider/taller.

  • Or, place the opening at center front
  • Or,substitute a standard t-shirt neckband
  • Or use any favorite neck finish


  • Sew the sleeves in last and stitch them in the round. I find this makes a subtle and superior difference to sewing the sleeve flat - even in a t-shirt!
  • Press up the sleeve hem facing
  • OPTIONAL: Leave the sleeve hem as a raw edge
  • Stitch sleeve seams, press open or serge.
  • Hand stitch sleeve hem.
  • Stitch the sleeves to the garment working with the garment on top.
  • Most of us learned to set a sleeve with the sleeve on top, but this is so much easier; it is working with the give of the knit, so the ease just disappears.
  • You need only 3 pins, one at each end and one at the shoulder seam, positioned on the seam so you can pull them out as you sew.
  • Stitch, easing as you sew, keeping edges even and stitching in a straight line.
  • Press the seam flat as sewn, then, working on a ham or the end of the ironing board, press the seams toward the cap of the sleeve and touch up from the right side.
  • Don’t trim the seam, the seam width ‘supports’ the cap of the sleeve.
  • You can serge the two seams together, keeping the shaping you pressed in, serging right along the edge to maintain the seam width. Touch up press again.
  • It is fine to leave the seams raw, or do a second line of straight stitching 1/4 inch from the first within the seam allowance, and press again.
  • Do not zigzag, this can stretch and distort the edge.
  • Press seam allowances toward sleeve, shaping cap as you press.

Marcy's Versions

I used our Domino Danish Knit (sold out), and Clair de Lune Danish Knit for the black and gray version and Pascal Panel French Digital Knit for the other (took 2 panels).


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